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House alarm keeps going off...help!
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# 1
sleepali
Old 13-04-2007, 8:55 PM
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Default House alarm keeps going off...help!

I've had my house alarm fitted for nearly ten years now. About 6 months ago, it started going off of it's own accord (even when not set), the noise was not the full sonic alarm but more of a tamper panel noise.

At first I thought it was the battery so I replaced this which seemed to solve the problem but only for a short while. It did go off a couple of times after but then settled down.

It recently started going off again so I again replaced the battery but to no avail. It goes off (still unset & when I'm in the house & just nipped out) at any given time.

I have taken the battery off, checked all the screws on the wires are tight and done the same with the push button panel but this has not stopped it from going off.

I have cleaned all the PIR sensors as well.

My sister has the same alarm system and exactly the same thing has been happening to hers as well!

The system is made by Veritas.

Can anyone shed any light on what the problem may be and how to fix it please?

Thank you
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# 2
albertross
Old 13-04-2007, 9:12 PM
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did you change the battery in the bell box, or the panel? It could be anything really, if it is a tamper fault, then you need someone to diagnose which circuit is faulting.

http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/....html?t=425734
Ever get the feeling you are wasting your time? :rolleyes:

Last edited by albertross; 13-04-2007 at 9:14 PM.
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# 3
sleepali
Old 13-04-2007, 9:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albertross View Post
did you change the battery in the bell box, or the panel? It could be anything really, if it is a tamper fault, then you need someone to diagnose which circuit is faulting.

http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/....html?t=425734
Thank for getting back to me and providing the link.

The system only has one rechargeable battery which is housed within the panel. I don't think/know if it's an actual tamper fault (the LED's don't show this zone when it's gone off - just the various PIR LED's light up) it was a way to describe the noise...if that makes sense?
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# 4
sleepali
Old 13-04-2007, 9:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albertross View Post
If you have an external bell box, it probably has a battery in as well, and after 10 years is probably due for replacement (it can set off the alarm). Water getting into the box can also cause corrosion, which can set off the alarm. If you have the manual, it may give you advise on diagnosing the fault, or you may be able to get the manufacturers service/installation manual from their site, or the forum I linked to in the other thread.
I'll have to get my ladders out over the weekend and check out the bell box. Thanx again
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# 5
ben500
Old 13-04-2007, 9:36 PM
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Have you checked the cupboards for burglars yet?

Last edited by ben500; 13-04-2007 at 9:48 PM.
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# 6
TornadoTom
Old 13-04-2007, 9:40 PM
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I'm not an alarm engineer, but have worked on entry systems that have anti-tamper on them.
Anti-tamper wires work on a normally closed circuit...I assume that house alarms would be the same. I.e, if you cut the wires the alarm will sound.
If I got a fault like this I would disconnect the tamper wires from the main control and put a bridging wire across the terminals instead. See if the alarm worked ok for a couple of weeks. If ok, then you know its the anti-tamper wires...obviously.
Reconnect the tamper wires one pair at a time until you find the faulty ones.
The alarm engineers in here might find you a quicker way to find the fault, but if you intend finding it yourself...it's a start.
Tom
PREDICTION FOR 07/08


L...O.O.T.T.R.B.C.
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# 7
sleepali
Old 13-04-2007, 9:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben500 View Post
Have you checked the cupboars for burglars yet?
OMG...that's the one thing I've not done yet eeekkk LOL


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# 8
jan19832010
Old 25-11-2010, 3:04 PM
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If its a veritas panel try typing in 1234 or 4321(providing its not been engineer locked out) then press PROG (all led's should light up) to access engineer mode and then do a walk test on the sensors to ensure they detect you and latch.If you get a sensor that latches without you walkin into a room then theres your culprit.
To do this simple press 06 for non latching test (just beeps when you walk through then releases latch to click sound) or for latching permanent test its 19. You will here the number of bleeps for corresponding zones e.g. (bleep,bleep,bleep means zone 3 and so on).After you walk out of room and sensor settles to sleep mode you will hear the clicks again. Try this on the latching test so the system records the zones already done (19). Include door contacts and infra red barriers if you have them as they are all zones.

As an engineer this is common on systems for these faults to accur but if its not cured the problem then you will need an engineer to visit your premises and carry out a diagnostic check with a laptop or test equipment as it could also be a crushed wire under a floorboard if the installation has not been done properly. This will short out the circuit and will not show which zone but only as a tamper which is difficult to diagnose but from the panel by removing all the zones and carrying out a continuity test on all the cables.

For a call out you are looking around 60 additional to whatever parts or replacement needs to be carried out.
Hope this helps
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# 9
kwikbreaks
Old 25-11-2010, 3:29 PM
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That's a very detailed and useful post but I suspect he's already fixed it somehow in the three and a half years since the thread was started.
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# 10
mr_fishbulb
Old 25-11-2010, 4:53 PM
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I would also like to know how to stop burglar alarms from going off.

I don't know the specific model yet, but I think the guy will be out of his house tonight so I'll see if I can look in through the windows.

Also any advice you could give on selling a 42" TV, an iPad and a laptop (all without boxes or receipts) would be greatly appreciated. I did have someone in the pub lined up to buy them, but he will be unavailable for the next 5-10 years (or maybe earlier for good behaviour).
I wish I could invest in taxes - they're the only thing guaranteed to go up.
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# 11
george68
Old 08-03-2011, 6:40 PM
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can anyone help me,got house alarm ts510,when the weather starts to warm up in the daytime,internal alarm keeps going off and tamper flashes.resets ok then later goes off again.only goes off in daytime when warm,thx anyone
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# 12
fwor
Old 08-03-2011, 8:58 PM
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If the tamper light is flashing, is a zone light also lit? If so it's almost certainly a wiring or sensor fault in that zone.

If nothing obvious with the wiring, it should be possible to take out of circuit each sensor in turn (with the control panel in engineer mode) to narrow it down to a specific sensor.
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# 13
Linbox
Old 10-03-2011, 12:37 PM
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Battery needs changing
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# 14
Linbox
Old 10-03-2011, 12:40 PM
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Or/and the tamper spring/button needs kludging (technical term)
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# 15
scattycat69
Old 20-09-2011, 9:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikbreaks View Post
That's a very detailed and useful post but I suspect he's already fixed it somehow in the three and a half years since the thread was started.

Well it's obviously always useful as a hostorical thing also as I am searching the same problem in Sept 2011 and the post is very useful to me too !
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# 16
Maverick180
Old 08-11-2011, 9:58 PM
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I have a problem with our alarm, it's an Accord...sorry don't know model number but it was put in around 2002 by previous owner, we had an internal alarm go off because it lost mains power around 10pm, but I didn't realise this, then at 3am the whole kit and kaboodle went off due to the standby battery running down, we got the engineer out and he has diagnosed a knackered transformer and reccommended a replacement panel, 180 we can't afford before xmas so I said just leave it. then after two days of no feed and no battery power to it, the external siren has started making a buzzing (or maybe rapid clicking ) noise...this has gone on now for 24 hours and shows no sign of stopping! Any idea's? does it sound like it has a battery in that is run down? I'll be having a look tomorrow as we're not interested in reinstating the alarm just yet, we just want some peace!!!


Thanks
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# 17
fwor
Old 09-11-2011, 12:11 AM
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I'm not saying that your engineer was making work for himself, but a replacement panel would be ~so~ much more profitable for him than a replacement battery. However, a knackered battery is far, far more likely than a knackered transformer.

The latter do fail - often during power cuts or electrical storms - but the former are consumables. The Yuasa lead-acid ones usually have a service life of only a few years each, unless the panel is well designed.

Your guess is right about the external sounder, which will have a self activating bell module installed. It will die of its own accord, but it's impossible to predict how soon, as it depends on too many factors.
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# 18
Maverick180
Old 09-11-2011, 2:14 PM
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thanks for the quick response, i was there when he checked it with his meter he said he had 230V going into the transformer and zero coming out? are the external batteries easy to get at and remove?
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# 19
fwor
Old 09-11-2011, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick180 View Post
he checked it with his meter he said he had 230V going into the transformer and zero coming out? are the external batteries easy to get at and remove?
If he's trustworthy, sounds like a failed transformer. If not he could be telling you anything he liked.

Yes, in your case the battery should be easy if you're Ok with working at that height. The problem normally is attention from neighbours when the bell activates, but that won't be an issue for you...
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# 20
wazza
Old 10-11-2011, 12:13 AM
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Glad i came across this post. sister is having a similar problem.
Problem with having access to internet is that i get asked by many to solve their problems Well at least i learn something on the way
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