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  • FIRST POST
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 21st Sep 11, 10:08 PM
    • 344Posts
    • 57Thanks
    Martyn_H
    Testing a hot water cylinder thermostat
    • #1
    • 21st Sep 11, 10:08 PM
    Testing a hot water cylinder thermostat 21st Sep 11 at 10:08 PM
    Hi

    Our hot water is hotter than normal - too hot to keep your hands in but not scalding. I turned down the stat from 60c but it hasn't made any difference.

    Can anyone tell me how I can test the above before I pay for a replacement? I've done a Google to no effect.

    Thank you.
Page 1
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 22nd Sep 11, 7:55 AM
    • 344 Posts
    • 57 Thanks
    Martyn_H
    • #2
    • 22nd Sep 11, 7:55 AM
    • #2
    • 22nd Sep 11, 7:55 AM
    It's not loose.
    • bob_a_builder
    • By bob_a_builder 22nd Sep 11, 8:06 AM
    • 1,518 Posts
    • 721 Thanks
    bob_a_builder
    • #3
    • 22nd Sep 11, 8:06 AM
    • #3
    • 22nd Sep 11, 8:06 AM
    does turning it right down make boiler go off and right up make it go on ?
    (make sure,turn room stat right down too or only enable HW on to test)

    has someone left the immersion switched on ?
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 22nd Sep 11, 8:30 AM
    • 344 Posts
    • 57 Thanks
    Martyn_H
    • #4
    • 22nd Sep 11, 8:30 AM
    • #4
    • 22nd Sep 11, 8:30 AM
    @ bob...I keep the immersion heater turned off at the consumer unit under the stairs. Have done as you suggested, and boiler does go on/off.
    Last edited by Martyn_H; 22-09-2011 at 8:37 AM.
  • DVardysShadow
    • #5
    • 22nd Sep 11, 10:57 AM
    • #5
    • 22nd Sep 11, 10:57 AM
    Has it ever worked correctly? Sometimes cylinder thermostats are installed which don't really control the temperature in a meaningful way. Typically, the hot water cylinder runs on gravity circulation and the thermostat cuts the boiler off when temperature is reached - but only in the summer months with HW only selected. In the winter, the boiler runs anyway, because CH+HW is selected and the cylinder thermostat does not cut off the boiler.
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 22nd Sep 11, 11:51 AM
    • 344 Posts
    • 57 Thanks
    Martyn_H
    • #6
    • 22nd Sep 11, 11:51 AM
    • #6
    • 22nd Sep 11, 11:51 AM
    My wife remarked on the water being hotter as well.
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 23rd Sep 11, 7:31 AM
    • 344 Posts
    • 57 Thanks
    Martyn_H
    • #7
    • 23rd Sep 11, 7:31 AM
    • #7
    • 23rd Sep 11, 7:31 AM
    Any plumbers here?
  • DVardysShadow
    • #8
    • 23rd Sep 11, 11:52 AM
    • #8
    • 23rd Sep 11, 11:52 AM
    As I have already asked, has it ever worked correctly?

    If you don't want to answer questions, there is no obligation. If you start to provide information and go and find things out, we might begin to work out what your problem is. But if you show unwilling to give information, most knowledgeable people won't bother to ask you for more information -and they won't venture an opinion either.

    You are unlikely, without providing more information, to have someone drop by and tell you why you have a problem and what the solution is. And frankly, if someone tells you how to fix it based on the information we have so far, you are on a 90% chance of a wild goose chase.

    Now, my question to you may appear dumb. But it is the question which determines whether there is a design problem with your system or something has broken.
  • 1984ReturnsForReal
    • #9
    • 23rd Sep 11, 5:44 PM
    • #9
    • 23rd Sep 11, 5:44 PM
    Any plumbers here?
    Originally posted by Martyn_H

    3 or 4 regulars & another 3 or 4 that aren't plumbers but know their stuff.

    Some of who have already posted & you have ignored them.
  • mikey72
    You do mean the stat when you're heating the water with gas, not the electric immersion?

    Have you got your heating on yet after summer?

    If the answers yes to both, my money's on the diverter valve.
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 23rd Sep 11, 10:39 PM
    • 344 Posts
    • 57 Thanks
    Martyn_H
    As I have already asked, has it ever worked correctly?

    If you don't want to answer questions, there is no obligation. If you start to provide information and go and find things out, we might begin to work out what your problem is. But if you show unwilling to give information, most knowledgeable people won't bother to ask you for more information -and they won't venture an opinion either.

    You are unlikely, without providing more information, to have someone drop by and tell you why you have a problem and what the solution is. And frankly, if someone tells you how to fix it based on the information we have so far, you are on a 90% chance of a wild goose chase.

    Now, my question to you may appear dumb. But it is the question which determines whether there is a design problem with your system or something has broken.
    Originally posted by DVardysShadow
    Oh spare me the attitude! I have tried to answer as best I can, work commitments permitting, but if that isn't good enough, please don't bother wearing out your keyboard as I don't care for rudeness.

    As far as I know it has worked correctly.
    Last edited by Martyn_H; 23-09-2011 at 10:51 PM.
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 23rd Sep 11, 10:39 PM
    • 344 Posts
    • 57 Thanks
    Martyn_H
    3 or 4 regulars & another 3 or 4 that aren't plumbers but know their stuff.

    Some of who have already posted & you have ignored them.
    Originally posted by 1984ReturnsForReal
    Not deliberately.
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 23rd Sep 11, 10:41 PM
    • 344 Posts
    • 57 Thanks
    Martyn_H
    You do mean the stat when you're heating the water with gas, not the electric immersion?

    Have you got your heating on yet after summer?

    If the answers yes to both, my money's on the diverter valve.
    Originally posted by mikey72
    Yes, the stat when using gas. No, I'm delaying turning on whilst the weather is fine.
  • DVardysShadow
    Oh spare me the attitude! I have tried to answer as best I can, work commitments permitting, but if that isn't good enough, please don't bother wearing out your keyboard as I don't care for rudeness.

    As far as I know it has worked correctly.
    Originally posted by Martyn_H
    Attitude?

    I could get really hot under the collar that you ignored my question and then came up with this:

    Any plumbers here?
    Originally posted by Martyn_H
    Intentional or not, it comes across as down right insulting. Most people who post here don't have a trade, but there are many who know their domestic systems inside out. Between the posters you have available. - even excluding those who actually are plumbers - there will be enough expertise to solve your problem if you can provide accurate answers.

    But if you are going to insist on a plumber, go out and pay one.
    Last edited by DVardysShadow; 24-09-2011 at 9:15 AM.
    • Martyn_H
    • By Martyn_H 24th Sep 11, 11:11 AM
    • 344 Posts
    • 57 Thanks
    Martyn_H
    I take your point about my remark 'Any plumbers here?' It looked to me like the thread had run its course after a few replies. Obviously I've no way of telling whether people are skilled tradesmen or householders just trying to be helpful, which is the bracket I fall into. I can assure you that it wasn't intended to offend. Perhaps we could all choose our words more carefully on occasion.
  • Wilchard
    Testing a cylinder thermostat
    I have the same problem - but for me, no hot water. I have a boiler pump & diverter valve. CH hot water is fine. Towel rails heat up when only the hot water system is switched on, but I guess that is OK as they probably are fed before the diverter. The diverter valve does spin back if I manually spin it away from its position but not far enough to open the path to the HW cylinder. I suspect the tank thermostat. I was hoping someone might suggest how to test the stat. In the absence of such advice, I am going to turn off the mains, remove said stat and see if its contacts are continuous when on and not when off and I am hoping that this is a sufficient test.

    NEW THREAD NOW STARTED
    Last edited by Wilchard; 11-04-2012 at 12:52 PM. Reason: Moved to new thread on recommendation of DVardysShadow
    • 27col
    • By 27col 10th Apr 12, 11:08 AM
    • 6,450 Posts
    • 4,215 Thanks
    27col
    It seems that any "attitude" here is down to the OP and not to those trying to make sense of the question without being given enough information to be able to help properly. It does not matter a toss whether the reply comes from a "plunber" or a competent DIYer, just as long as it helps provide a solution to the problem.
    I can afford anything that I want.
    Just so long as I don't want much.
  • DVardysShadow
    I have the same problem - but for me, no hot water. I have a boiler pump & diverter valve. CH hot water is fine. Towel rails heat up when only the hot water system is switched on, but I guess that is OK as they probably are fed before the diverter. The diverter valve does spin back if I manually spin it away from its position but not far enough to open the path to the HW cylinder. I suspect the tank thermostat. I was hoping someone might suggest how to test the stat. In the absence of such advice, I am going to turn off the mains, remove said stat and see if its contacts are continuous when on and not when off and I am hoping that this is a sufficient test.
    Originally posted by Wilchard
    New thread now started at http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=3899685

    Start a new thread please. Go to http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/forumdisplay.php?f=39 and use the 'new thread' button. The come back and edit your post here to say that you have started a new thread.

    Really no benefit in tacking your problem on the back of a thread which has gone sour. Everyone will be grumpy by the time they reach your question.
    Last edited by DVardysShadow; 11-04-2012 at 9:00 PM.
    • southcoastrgi
    • By southcoastrgi 10th Apr 12, 11:37 PM
    • 5,240 Posts
    • 3,048 Thanks
    southcoastrgi
    Has it ever worked correctly? Sometimes cylinder thermostats are installed which don't really control the temperature in a meaningful way. Typically, the hot water cylinder runs on gravity circulation and the thermostat cuts the boiler off when temperature is reached - but only in the summer months with HW only selected. In the winter, the boiler runs anyway, because CH+HW is selected and the cylinder thermostat does not cut off the boiler.
    Originally posted by DVardysShadow
    Well some people on here may be surprised at my answer but firstly DV i think you must be having a bad day with regard to your replies & to say they are over the top is an understatement, & with regard to the quoted post above this is not correct, only a gravity hot water system will work as you describe & normally won't have a cylinder stat & just rely on the boiler stat, thankfully these system are becoming less & less common so def not typical as the majority are now fully pumped.

    OP make sure that the stat is fully in contact with the cylinder & if it is then it may be faulty, this is a job you can do yourself just buy another one (they are not expensive try & get the same make if you can) there is only two wires in there & if you get them round the wrong way the stat will work in reverse so just swop them over, hope that helps & best of luck.
    I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.

    You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.
  • DVardysShadow
    Well some people on here may be surprised at my answer but firstly DV i think you must be having a bad day with regard to your replies & to say they are over the top is an understatement, & with regard to the quoted post above this is not correct, only a gravity hot water system will work as you describe & normally won't have a cylinder stat & just rely on the boiler stat, thankfully these system are becoming less & less common so def not typical as the majority are now fully pumped.

    OP make sure that the stat is fully in contact with the cylinder & if it is then it may be faulty, this is a job you can do yourself just buy another one (they are not expensive try & get the same make if you can) there is only two wires in there & if you get them round the wrong way the stat will work in reverse so just swop them over, hope that helps & best of luck.
    Originally posted by keithgillyon
    Keep you hair on, this thread is over 6 months old and has only been revived by a newbie who could not see how to start a new thread.

    And you tell me I am wrong because what I say only applies to gravity systems. Fair point - and as you can see from my reply, I do make it clear that I am writing about gravity systems. As combis have become the norm, of course, cylinders have been overtaken, but for some psychic reason, I have concluded that this thread is about a systems with a cylinder.

    Hope you start having a better day. By the way, as you know so much about this, your help is required on http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=3899685
    Last edited by DVardysShadow; 11-04-2012 at 9:01 PM.
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