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  • FIRST POST
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 6th Jan 11, 7:18 PM
    • 1,261Posts
    • 709Thanks
    lovesgshp
    Ground Source Heat Pumps
    • #1
    • 6th Jan 11, 7:18 PM
    Ground Source Heat Pumps 6th Jan 11 at 7:18 PM
    If anyone wants info on these, then please let me know, as have had one for over 5 years.
Page 51
    • beardymarrow
    • By beardymarrow 20th Nov 17, 9:40 AM
    • 135 Posts
    • 118 Thanks
    beardymarrow
    Many Thanks for that, another issue is the Hot Water temperature. I think I read somewhere the maximum default setting for Hot water was 54c or 55c. No matter what Temp. I have as setting, whether its the default 51c or whether i change that to 52c or 50c, it seems to want to heat the water to 54c. It's a strange one, maybe another sensor acting strangely. Was considering resetting to Factory default settings to see if that sorted anything, but I'm worried in case the language would also change to Swedish or something, then where would I go to change Language settings before re-programming. I am actually very happy with the System, living in a 160sqm house in the North of Scotland, Temperatures all around my house of a constant 21c and the system costs less than £800 per Year for all Heating and Hot Water needs. Again, many Thanks for the info.
    Originally posted by frslam
    Hi, this is normal. There are two things going on with the DHW temp. The first is that the off temp is decided by the gt9 return sensor, not as you might assume by the gt3 DHW temp sensor. The second is that there is hysteresis set (4 degrees by default but I changed mine to 2). So on mine if the DHW target is set at 50 (which it is), it comes on when the gt3 sensor hits 49 and goes off when the gt9 hits 51 (gt3 itself is a couple of degrees higher than that). Hope that puts your mind at rest.
    Last edited by beardymarrow; 20-11-2017 at 10:08 AM.
    • DeeWestern
    • By DeeWestern 20th Nov 17, 7:07 PM
    • 99 Posts
    • 33 Thanks
    DeeWestern
    Help! It turns out my GSHP has been leaking for a few days, I have a very wet and hot garage





    Hot water is coming out of the hot water tank, via the pipe that's highlighted. It is a copper pipe that runs up, along, and then down between the hot water tank and the heating cyiinder to the ground as an emergency outlet.

    I've opened up the main GSHP, turned off all the power switches and turned off the black handled valve that is under the blue arrow in the second photo. This seems to have stopped the water leak for now.

    What could have caused this failure and how do I get it fixed?
    Last edited by DeeWestern; 20-11-2017 at 7:27 PM.
    • beardymarrow
    • By beardymarrow 20th Nov 17, 9:34 PM
    • 135 Posts
    • 118 Thanks
    beardymarrow
    Help! It turns out my GSHP has been leaking for a few days, I have a very wet and hot garage





    Hot water is coming out of the hot water tank, via the pipe that's highlighted. It is a copper pipe that runs up, along, and then down between the hot water tank and the heating cyiinder to the ground as an emergency outlet.

    I've opened up the main GSHP, turned off all the power switches and turned off the black handled valve that is under the blue arrow in the second photo. This seems to have stopped the water leak for now.

    What could have caused this failure and how do I get it fixed?
    Originally posted by DeeWestern
    Hi Dee, that sounds like the pressure relief valve is opening. Does it leak water from the same pipe if you manually turn the knob on top of the valve (the prv is the one just to the left of the arrow in the second photo) half a turn (it shouldn't go any further if it's the prv)?

    If it is that valve, you'd need to then find out if that was because the valve was faulty, or the tank genuinely is over pressure. I'd be surprised if it was genuinely over pressure, unless the gshp is overheating the water (what does gt3 get to at max?), so hopefully it's an easy job for you or any local plumber to replace the prv. If that sorts it, it was a faulty prv.
    • DeeWestern
    • By DeeWestern 20th Nov 17, 9:37 PM
    • 99 Posts
    • 33 Thanks
    DeeWestern
    Yeah, it's definitely that valve. I've turned it all off so hopefully it's not overpressure, but I can't check GT3. Glad to hear it sounds an easy fix.

    Is it a certain type / size of PRV that I can get the plumber to bring with him?
    • beardymarrow
    • By beardymarrow 20th Nov 17, 10:11 PM
    • 135 Posts
    • 118 Thanks
    beardymarrow
    Yeah, it's definitely that valve. I've turned it all off so hopefully it's not overpressure, but I can't check GT3. Glad to hear it sounds an easy fix.

    Is it a certain type / size of PRV that I can get the plumber to bring with him?
    Originally posted by DeeWestern
    Ideally they'll need to know the size and type of the 2 connectors into it, but most importantly the bar rating from the top. Might be best to email him/her a side and top view pic of it to be safe. They might well just bring the right rating one and then just adjust the pipework to fit.
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 21st Nov 17, 5:41 PM
    • 1,261 Posts
    • 709 Thanks
    lovesgshp
    Missed some of this activity, as have builders in and half the back wall of the house is out due to them repairing the earthquake damage. Beardy is giving very good advice as always, so is worth following his comments.
    frslam: also make sure you have bled any air out of the DHW tank, just to make sure that it is heating correctly.
    DW: Are you still getting the gt8/9 alarms, or did you change the connections as advised? Pressure relief valves can be a problem especially after a few years of use. There will be the relief pressure noted on the valve, so you also need to check the supplied pressure to it as well. Normal pressures are about 4bar before the valve opens.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
    • DeeWestern
    • By DeeWestern 23rd Nov 17, 11:49 AM
    • 99 Posts
    • 33 Thanks
    DeeWestern
    The plumber came round this morning, swapped out the PRV and also the two flexible hoses. Cost £140.

    Leak stopped as expected, but my GT8/9 alarms continue unabated - and no debris in the filter either. Totally exhausted on ideas as to what this can be - other than the ongoing beeping, it works fine though.
    Last edited by DeeWestern; 23-11-2017 at 12:25 PM.
    • beardymarrow
    • By beardymarrow 23rd Nov 17, 1:31 PM
    • 135 Posts
    • 118 Thanks
    beardymarrow
    The plumber came round this morning, swapped out the PRV and also the two flexible hoses. Cost £140.

    Leak stopped as expected, but my GT8/9 alarms continue unabated - and no debris in the filter either. Totally exhausted on ideas as to what this can be - other than the ongoing beeping, it works fine though.
    Originally posted by DeeWestern
    Cool, that's good, at least you're back up and running.

    The flexible hoses, are you talking about the ones within the GSHP that loveshgsp recommended were replaced? Did he check the pipework for blockages?
    • DeeWestern
    • By DeeWestern 23rd Nov 17, 4:22 PM
    • 99 Posts
    • 33 Thanks
    DeeWestern
    Yes, the flexible pipes GSHP recommended for the beeping. No checking for other blockages, didn't think this had been asked for.
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 29th Nov 17, 3:59 PM
    • 1,261 Posts
    • 709 Thanks
    lovesgshp
    DW. Sorry to hear that changing the pipes did not solve the problem. I am checking if there is a possibility that the black immersion heater unit could be partially blocked as the flow does go through that. Are there any rust stains around the very bottom of that unit? ( there is a square base, which has a seal and I have had one case where the seal had slightly perforated and caused a rust build up inside the unit, but it did also show outside as well).
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
    • frslam
    • By frslam 30th Nov 17, 1:12 PM
    • 3 Posts
    • 1 Thanks
    frslam
    Many thanks for the replies, very helpful and knowledgeable. Yes lovesgshp, I've already bled air out of the tank, always the first thing I do. Last time I had work done on my system, replacing a circulating pump inside the GSHP (floor heating - was actually a leak in the joint above it) I asked the plumber to check the strainer for the ground loop (inside house - flow). I told him there should be a retaining circlip holding the filter in place. He took the screw cap off and there was nothing there, no circlip and no filter. I was watching at the time so I know he's telling the truth. The only other time that was opened was when an engineer came to service the Heat Pump under warranty, it needed a new 3-Port valve. I know while the engineer was here he told me he was going to clean the filters. I wonder if he dropped something behind the GSHP which would be inaccessible. On another note, does the E7 + HT consume the same amount of energy when it's space heating as when it is water heating, and what is the actual consumption when it is running? Any links to where I can buy the filter and circlip would be appreciated, hopefully there'll be no long term damage of the GSHP because of the missing parts.
    • DeeWestern
    • By DeeWestern 30th Nov 17, 1:30 PM
    • 99 Posts
    • 33 Thanks
    DeeWestern
    I've struggled to find a circlip too that fits, so if you end up with a good source let me know!

    LGSHP - will check out the square base next time I'm home in a couple of weeks.
    • lovesgshp
    • By lovesgshp 30th Nov 17, 2:12 PM
    • 1,261 Posts
    • 709 Thanks
    lovesgshp
    Many thanks for the replies, very helpful and knowledgeable. Yes lovesgshp, I've already bled air out of the tank, always the first thing I do. Last time I had work done on my system, replacing a circulating pump inside the GSHP (floor heating - was actually a leak in the joint above it) I asked the plumber to check the strainer for the ground loop (inside house - flow). I told him there should be a retaining circlip holding the filter in place. He took the screw cap off and there was nothing there, no circlip and no filter. I was watching at the time so I know he's telling the truth. The only other time that was opened was when an engineer came to service the Heat Pump under warranty, it needed a new 3-Port valve. I know while the engineer was here he told me he was going to clean the filters. I wonder if he dropped something behind the GSHP which would be inaccessible. On another note, does the E7 + HT consume the same amount of energy when it's space heating as when it is water heating, and what is the actual consumption when it is running? Any links to where I can buy the filter and circlip would be appreciated, hopefully there'll be no long term damage of the GSHP because of the missing parts.
    Originally posted by frslam
    If you can find a Worcester Bosch supplier in your area, then he should be able to supply the filter and clip, as the IVT unit is the same as supplied to them under the Greensource name.
    With the power used to produce the DHW, then yes it does increase. I have some charts of the levels, but unfortunately not on this laptop.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
    • beardymarrow
    • By beardymarrow 30th Nov 17, 3:18 PM
    • 135 Posts
    • 118 Thanks
    beardymarrow
    Hiya, I put some notes on the circlip size, and suggested source for them, here - http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?p=72402873&highlight=circlip#post72 402873

    For the price of them £4-ish for 2, I'd suggest getting both sizes and seeing which one works.

    Hope that helps.
    Last edited by beardymarrow; 30-11-2017 at 3:21 PM.
    • DeeWestern
    • By DeeWestern 16th Dec 17, 1:44 PM
    • 99 Posts
    • 33 Thanks
    DeeWestern
    DW. Sorry to hear that changing the pipes did not solve the problem.
    Originally posted by lovesgshp
    I didn't see the pipes get changed with my own eyes - and the 'new' ones look identical to the old. Should I be worried, or are these red and red/blue ones what they all look like?

    • DeeWestern
    • By DeeWestern 16th Dec 17, 1:46 PM
    • 99 Posts
    • 33 Thanks
    DeeWestern
    there is a possibility that the black immersion heater unit could be partially blocked as the flow does go through that. Are there any rust stains around the very bottom of that unit? ( there is a square base, which has a seal and I have had one case where the seal had slightly perforated and caused a rust build up inside the unit, but it did also show outside as well).
    Originally posted by lovesgshp
    I can't see the square base, but it looks like there is a small leak there.









    • beardymarrow
    • By beardymarrow 16th Dec 17, 2:25 PM
    • 135 Posts
    • 118 Thanks
    beardymarrow
    Hi Dee, that's the compressor. The electric cassette (which I think is what lovesgshp meant when he said "immersion heater") is at the top just under the 3 way valve. It's a long black round thing.
    • DeeWestern
    • By DeeWestern 16th Dec 17, 8:06 PM
    • 99 Posts
    • 33 Thanks
    DeeWestern
    Hi Dee, that's the compressor. The electric cassette (which I think is what lovesgshp meant when he said "immersion heater") is at the top just under the 3 way valve. It's a long black round thing.
    Originally posted by beardymarrow
    Ah! Such technical terms meant I could put my hands on it straight away this time - and it seems fine.



    I'm now a bit worried about the compressor as it seems to have a tiny leak, and a bit worried the flexible hoses were never replaced.
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