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  • FIRST POST
    GAZB
    Removing radiator and blanking off
    • #1
    • 29th May 10, 2:37 PM
    Removing radiator and blanking off 29th May 10 at 2:37 PM
    Im in the process of converting my loft , I want to fit the staircase up against the bedroom wall but there is a small radiator on there that will need to be removed , I dont want to refit it again , I know how to remove the radiator but im not sure what to do with the pipe work under the floor boards , is it just a case of cutting the pipes and blanking both ends off under the floor boards
Page 1
  • ormus
    • #2
    • 29th May 10, 3:04 PM
    • #2
    • 29th May 10, 3:04 PM
    assuming its the common two pipe system, then yes.

    if its a single pipe system then join the two cut ends together again.
    Get some gorm.
  • mikey72
    • #3
    • 29th May 10, 3:06 PM
    • #3
    • 29th May 10, 3:06 PM
    Basically yes.
    If there are two different pipes, one in, one out, drain it down, then cut them and cap them off. Re-fill with a corrosion inhibitor as well.

    Beat me to it.
    • gabyjane
    • By gabyjane 29th May 10, 3:10 PM
    • 3,493 Posts
    • 877 Thanks
    gabyjane
    • #4
    • 29th May 10, 3:10 PM
    • #4
    • 29th May 10, 3:10 PM
    Hi we had this done in our kitchen, we used a plumber as he fitted our USA fridge so got him to do at the same time and was about £20 if that. Our pipes that were left though were out of the wall as opposed to the floor and he just capped them in the wall and then we had to re fill and plaster the wall.
  • mikey72
    • #5
    • 29th May 10, 3:26 PM
    • #5
    • 29th May 10, 3:26 PM
    For £20 he couldn't have drained and re-filled.
    If you're fast you can do it without draining down, and cap them off.
    If you miss, or it goes wrong it's messy though. Plug the tank in the loft if you do it this way, but for a loft coversion the water will have a long way to go if it goes bad on you.
    • 27col
    • By 27col 29th May 10, 4:37 PM
    • 6,392 Posts
    • 4,157 Thanks
    27col
    • #6
    • 29th May 10, 4:37 PM
    • #6
    • 29th May 10, 4:37 PM
    If you cut the pipes using a pipe cutter, so as to leave a smooth end, all you then have to do is to put a push-fit stop-end onto the pipe. I always used to carry plastic stop-ends with me in case of emergency or for a temporary cap to put on the pipe.
    I can afford anything that I want.
    Just so long as I don't want much.
    • gabyjane
    • By gabyjane 29th May 10, 5:15 PM
    • 3,493 Posts
    • 877 Thanks
    gabyjane
    • #7
    • 29th May 10, 5:15 PM
    • #7
    • 29th May 10, 5:15 PM
    ]For £20 he couldn't have drained and re-filled.[/B]
    If you're fast you can do it without draining down, and cap them off.
    If you miss, or it goes wrong it's messy though. Plug the tank in the loft if you do it this way, but for a loft coversion the water will have a long way to go if it goes bad on you.
    by mikey72;33276865[B
    Well he drained it how would i know if he refilled it? would he need to if it is not being used again..not sure on how they work hence him doing it! Anyway he did the whole job for £20 (just asked dh!), he was plumbing in our fridge at the same time so said he would do then. he is also a friend so it was cheaper than i guess should be.
  • mikey72
    • #8
    • 29th May 10, 5:24 PM
    • #8
    • 29th May 10, 5:24 PM
    Well he drained it how would i know if he refilled it? would he need to if it is not being used again..not sure on how they work hence him doing it! Anyway he did the whole job for £20 (just asked dh!), he was plumbing in our fridge at the same time so said he would do then. he is also a friend so it was cheaper than i guess should be.
    Originally posted by gabyjane

    I'm not criticizing him, just advising if you do it yourself, drain the system down, then re-fill with inhibitor included.
    I do know plumbers who chop the pipes, get there thumb on, then get a stop end on, without draining down though. (Me, for one, but maybe not in a loft)
  • shandypants5
    • #9
    • 29th May 10, 5:29 PM
    • #9
    • 29th May 10, 5:29 PM
    UhOh! I drained and repaired my heating system about 2 years ago and just let it refill itself fron the ball valve in the loft tank...

    How much is this inhibitor and is it too late for me to add some now?
    “Careful. We don't want to learn from this.”

  • 1984ReturnsForReal
    has it got 2 lockshields on it?
  • mikey72
    UhOh! I drained and repaired my heating system about 2 years ago and just let it refill itself fron the ball valve in the loft tank...

    How much is this inhibitor and is it too late for me to add some now?
    Originally posted by shandypants5
    I'd drain and re-fill, circulate by turing the heating on, drain and re-fill etc until the water comes out clean, then re-fill with
    http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79683/Plumbing/Central-Heating-Treatment/Sentinel-X100-Central-Heating-Scale-Inhibitor-1Ltr

    added to the header as you re-fill.
  • gas4you
    For £20 he couldn't have drained and re-filled.
    If you're fast you can do it without draining down, and cap them off.
    If you miss, or it goes wrong it's messy though. Plug the tank in the loft if you do it this way, but for a loft coversion the water will have a long way to go if it goes bad on you.
    Originally posted by mikey72
    This is a very common way to work live on pipes that don't need soldering.

    You have to bung the cold fill, but also cap the open vent.

    I have had many a strange look from customers when I have asked if they have a spare carrot!

    If a combi or system boiler, then just release the pressure down to zero and the vacuum will soon form to stop water running out.

    You could of course always freeze the pipes, but then this involves extra cost.
  • mikey72
    This is a very common way to work live on pipes that don't need soldering.

    You have to bung the cold fill, but also cap the open vent.

    I have had many a strange look from customers when I have asked if they have a spare carrot!

    If a combi or system boiler, then just release the pressure down to zero and the vacuum will soon form to stop water running out.

    You could of course always freeze the pipes, but then this involves extra cost.
    Originally posted by gas4you
    You cut the pipe, and have a small trickle of water, which stops.
    Then from somewhere above you hear a gurgle in the pipes................
    How fast can you get a compression stop end on?
    • gabyjane
    • By gabyjane 29th May 10, 7:17 PM
    • 3,493 Posts
    • 877 Thanks
    gabyjane
    I'm not criticizing him, just advising if you do it yourself, drain the system down, then re-fill with inhibitor included.
    I do know plumbers who chop the pipes, get there thumb on, then get a stop end on, without draining down though. (Me, for one, but maybe not in a loft)
    Originally posted by mikey72
    No i know you weren't! Ah i see in that case he did drain it as remember him sitting there waiting for it to ..well drain!
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