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  • FIRST POST
    msb1302
    Electric Oven replacing. Plug point but hardwiring?
    • #1
    • 13th Mar 09, 10:43 AM
    Electric Oven replacing. Plug point but hardwiring? 13th Mar 09 at 10:43 AM
    Hi all,

    New to the board so thanks for reading firstly.

    My built in electric oven has died on me. Which aint great when I have 2 children who love thri food. LOL.

    Anyway I removed the oven from the unit to be confronted by a plug point! New house as well by the way so never looked behind the oven before. All the built in ovens I have seen need hardwiring and dont come with plugs or cable by the looks of things..

    I am just wondering if anyone knows how easy it is to hardwire an built in electric oven when a plug point there??

    Thank you in advance
Page 1
    • will-he-payitoff
    • By will-he-payitoff 13th Mar 09, 11:01 AM
    • 670 Posts
    • 184 Thanks
    will-he-payitoff
    • #2
    • 13th Mar 09, 11:01 AM
    • #2
    • 13th Mar 09, 11:01 AM
    If your new oven is less than 2Kw it will be ok to plug it in where the old one was.
  • msb1302
    • #3
    • 13th Mar 09, 11:45 AM
    • #3
    • 13th Mar 09, 11:45 AM
    Thanks for that.

    But it looks like I have found one that does need hardwiring and comes with a plug. So a case of just swapping them over then
    • thechippy
    • By thechippy 13th Mar 09, 11:17 PM
    • 1,916 Posts
    • 2,479 Thanks
    thechippy
    • #4
    • 13th Mar 09, 11:17 PM
    • #4
    • 13th Mar 09, 11:17 PM
    I'm confused. It needs hard wiring but comes with a plug?
    If it comes with a plug, then it means it can be plugged in.
    If not, it generally means that it needs to be hard wired and will need a 32-40a dedicated supply. If that's the case, you will need to get an electrician in to sort out the supply.

    Can you give any further info......
    • prowla
    • By prowla 14th Mar 09, 12:09 AM
    • 8,951 Posts
    • 6,853 Thanks
    prowla
    • #5
    • 14th Mar 09, 12:09 AM
    • #5
    • 14th Mar 09, 12:09 AM
    Our oven just has a normal 13 amp 3-pin mains plug.
    The (separate) hob needs hard-wiring, but not the oven.
    • premkit
    • By premkit 14th Mar 09, 9:42 AM
    • 215 Posts
    • 84 Thanks
    premkit
    • #6
    • 14th Mar 09, 9:42 AM
    • #6
    • 14th Mar 09, 9:42 AM
    about 80% of single ovens are 13amp fused, some all singing and dancing are 20amp.

    look at the data badge on the oven, it will be on the rebate when you open the door near the rubber seal. 3.1Kw is the max(3100w) this may sound a lot,
    but most new kettles are 3Kw.

    the new oven you put in should have access to the fuse ie above the worktop in a fused spur or a socket in an accessable position. not behind the oven.
    hope this helps
    • 27col
    • By 27col 14th Mar 09, 4:55 PM
    • 6,393 Posts
    • 4,160 Thanks
    27col
    • #7
    • 14th Mar 09, 4:55 PM
    • #7
    • 14th Mar 09, 4:55 PM
    If it needed to be hard wired, it would not come with a plug. As suggested, it would be a good idea to double check the rating plate on the appliance, just to be certain what is the power required. If it is 3kw or less then you can plug it in to the socket. Premkit is right about having an accessible local isolation facility for use in case of an emergency or for maintenance.
    I can afford anything that I want.
    Just so long as I don't want much.
  • Dave1987
    • #8
    • 10th Dec 10, 10:31 PM
    hardwire or plug in ??
    • #8
    • 10th Dec 10, 10:31 PM
    i am lookng to buy a new built in oven now it says it needs hardwiring but i have read on here that if its 3kw or less you can fit a 13a plug well the oven ive seen has an energy consumption of 0.79kw, so im ok to fit a 13a plug is that correct.
    Last edited by Dave1987; 10-12-2010 at 10:33 PM.
  • ormus
    • #9
    • 10th Dec 10, 11:18 PM
    • #9
    • 10th Dec 10, 11:18 PM
    generally speaking all modern ovens can be plugged into a 13 amp socket.
    its the hobs that need to be hardwired. switching all the rings on together exceeds the 3kw limit.

    you can usually tell which is which, by the flex that comes with the oven.
    if it looks like an appliance or kettle flex, itll be a 13 amp jobby.
    Last edited by ormus; 10-12-2010 at 11:20 PM.
    Get some gorm.
  • sillywilly
    This is the only example I have read on here where I think that the OP doesn't really have a clue and although people have tried to help in their replies I can imagine it being confusing.

    Please do not try DIYing this - it could be lethal! Get some qualified electricians in to give you no obligation quotes - 3 if possible - and get them to do it.

    I have learnt about the way ovens and hobs are wired in with a lot of sparks and a melted metal socket thinking "hmm that was close and not meant to happen - think I am going to turn all the electricity off now"!

    Learnt my lesson and know how it all works now - but it is not a job to consider unless you have a sound knowledge of electrics because it could have serious consequences - electricution / fires.

    Sorry if I have pi55ed on any of the more competent sparks fires on here - but this post worried me as I don't think she, or anyone should be mucking about with this if they don't have even a basic clue!
    • zax47
    • By zax47 12th Dec 10, 1:31 PM
    • 1,254 Posts
    • 928 Thanks
    zax47
    Sillywilly, seeing as the OP asked the question NEARLY TWO YEARS AGO then I don't think it's an issue!

    Anyway, as some of my fellow sparkies have said above; Most SINGLE ovens are now <3kW, come with a 13A plug fitted and are thus designed to be plugged in. DOUBLE ovens and hobs are generally >3kW and must be hardwired to a dedicated circuit wired with a suitably sized cable and protected by a suitably sized breaker/fuse. What constitutes "suitably sized" is why we're trained electricians!
    Last edited by zax47; 12-12-2010 at 1:45 PM.
  • adalancs
    adalancs
    Hi I had my kitchen refitted last year,and the kitchen electrics were redone as well.I had a Hotpoint OS897DPIX/HP built in oven fitted,which has been fine until I used the pyrolitic clean cycle for the first time and all the kitchen electrics tripped out.
    When the electrics were reset and the cooker had cooled down it is fine again.I am not sure now whether the electrics or the cooker is at fault.I have read on on the internet somewhere that this cooker needs 32 amp fuse and a cooker point.Although the wire appears to be thicker than usual,my cooker has a plug into a socket.The manual says the maximum power absorbed is 3400-3600W.voltage 230-240V-50Hz.Any advice please whether I need an electrician or Hotpoint before I dare use the cleaning cycle again!
  • marksw123
    It's a Hotpoint issue apparently
    We have been having the same problem. Hotpoint came out and told us that it was our electrics, so we got them changed costing £85. This made no difference.

    So then yesterday hotpoint came out again, a much more helpful guy and they told us it was a design problem and we need some new connections and sheathing inside the oven. There has been a technical bulletin released to hotpoint repair staff regarding the problem.

    We are now waiting for spare parts and the guy is cominig back. We hope this solves it.

    He also told us that it is OK plugged into a 13amp socket!
    Last edited by marksw123; 30-01-2011 at 9:43 PM. Reason: I forgot the last line!
  • adalancs
    Hotpoint issue on oven OS897DPIX
    Thanks for replying to my problem regarding using pyrolitic cycle.I'm going to phone Hotpoint again.The first time I phoned they suggested I use the pyrolitic cycle again,and if the electrics tripped out again they would come and look at it,but if it was my electrics at fault they would make a "no fault" charge!I haven't used the cleaning cycle again as with all that heat I was a bit nervous something drastic might happen like the oven get on fire!Will let you know how I get on.
    • macman
    • By macman 2nd Feb 11, 1:50 PM
    • 40,036 Posts
    • 16,195 Thanks
    macman
    Hi I had my kitchen refitted last year,and the kitchen electrics were redone as well.I had a Hotpoint OS897DPIX/HP built in oven fitted,which has been fine until I used the pyrolitic clean cycle for the first time and all the kitchen electrics tripped out.
    When the electrics were reset and the cooker had cooled down it is fine again.I am not sure now whether the electrics or the cooker is at fault.I have read on on the internet somewhere that this cooker needs 32 amp fuse and a cooker point.Although the wire appears to be thicker than usual,my cooker has a plug into a socket.The manual says the maximum power absorbed is 3400-3600W.voltage 230-240V-50Hz.Any advice please whether I need an electrician or Hotpoint before I dare use the cleaning cycle again!
    Originally posted by adalancs
    If you have that plugged in to a 13A socket then clearly it's going to trip drawing 3400W, as that's in excess of 14A. How do the instructions say it should be wired? It needs a proper dedicated cooker circuit and a cooker connection unit.
    Your cooker isn't faulty, the install is.
    No free lunch, and no free laptop
  • adalancs
    oven or wiring?
    Hi Macman.The instructions about connecting the electricity supply to the mains say to install a standardised plug corresponding to the load on the data plate,which is located on the appliance.It must be where you can't see it! Would that be the 3400-3600W? It goes on to say the appliance must be directly connected to the mains using an omnipolar switch with a minimum contact opening of 3mm installed between the appliance and the mains.The switch must be suitable for the charge indicated and must comply with current electrical regs(the earthing wire must not be interrupted by the switch)It also says to make sure that the appliance is earthed,the plug is compliant with the law and the socket can withstand the maximum power of the appliance ie 3400-3600W.So does that mean they are saying it is connected with a plug and socket? I think it might have been less of a problem if I'd bought an oven I could clean with Mr Muscle!
  • marksw123
    My oven only has a max load of 2400 according to our instruction manual - hence why it can be plugged in. It draws less than a kettle, or electric heater! Hotpoint and an electrician confirmed ours is OK plugged in a 13amp socket, and hotpoint have also confirmed ours is a fault with the oven. He's coming to fit they new parts this week......
  • Hmanckte
    have same problem. Hotpoint Changed unit but still the same. ELCB trips not current trip.
    Did anybody get a solution to this so that I can clean my oven?
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