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  • FIRST POST
    rustybucket
    Damp in concrete floor, dig it up or cover?
    • #1
    • 21st Jul 08, 5:49 PM
    Damp in concrete floor, dig it up or cover? 21st Jul 08 at 5:49 PM
    Hello,

    A quick question, we have just moved into an old Edwardian house and the surveys suggested damp in the walls.

    Took time and then paid for a damp course survey which revealed that walls were dry but concrete floor was not great quality.

    Believed that I needed to get the floor removed and had one quote for removing all the old concrete, placing hard core into the ground then refilling with new concrete, damp proof and screed for 2300.

    Another builder came round and said that seemed like a waste of time and that I could get away with just placing a plastic membrane above the concrete and a new screed and that we were wasting money removing the concrete.

    To say I'm confused is an underestimation and wound up!!!

    I'd welcome any suggestions or advice if you have any experience.
Page 1
  • evilgoose
    • #2
    • 21st Jul 08, 6:03 PM
    • #2
    • 21st Jul 08, 6:03 PM
    Hello, I'm in a simular situation. I've got a 1950's house.

    Borrowed a damp meter which come up with damp patches on the floor. And where i've removed the old hearth I can see the 'layers'.

    Found out the under the screed I've got stuff called builders paper - its tar impregnated paper to form a damp barrier. I was also told that more than likely under the screed would be an ash floor. So I've lifted a section where is was worst damaged to find its concrete under there - which again shows up as been damp.

    My choice is knock of the screed, put down a plastic DPM and re-screed it, of rip the whole lot up, and put down a warm-hard floor - gravel and sand then jabbalite, then a DPM the concrete then a new screed.

    I dont know what to do either!!

    I've knocked all the walls in that room back to the brick so have been told that I may as well do it properly and it wont cost me to much extra - but I'm unsure.
    I'll be interested to see what advice you get.
  • parkhead
    • #3
    • 21st Jul 08, 6:34 PM
    • #3
    • 21st Jul 08, 6:34 PM
    you need not do either of the above you can tank it with soveriegn k11 system it is only 4mm in thickness . a local builders merchant will order the materials for you or contact the nearest soverign outlet .it is easy to apply as k11 only works on wet backgrounds im soverign registered plastereer
    i can explain the system for you the items you would recieve is antisulphate /liguid sbr agent /and k11 grey /white .the first job to do is mix antisulphate with water 50/50 and just use a garden spray to wet the floor then mix 1 part sbr to 9 parts water and paint the floor will take about 20 mins to dry depending on area of floor a pint of sbr with the above water should coat 8sqaure meters .now the tanking part .1part sbr to 2 parts of water usualy 10 litre buckets used mix with k 11 powder with a drill and to get the right consistence you will need a painters block brush. sit the brush onto the mix you just made and if it sinks in the mix about 1 inch it is ready to use. now paint your floor with the block brush and leave to dry about 1 hour now do the same again with white k 11 to ensure total coverage and when it starts to set slightly go over with a sponge job done ready for carpet next day the garantee is the lifetime off the building 1 bag off k11 does 12 square meters hope this helps any enquries you can email me mcalvoy@btinternet.com
    her is link http://www.sovereignchemicals.com/
    Last edited by parkhead; 21-07-2008 at 7:07 PM. Reason: link
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