Peel-Away or Kling-Strip - which is better

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  • Strangely, I've heard of porridge being used as a method for stripping paint from wood. Some people say it does the trick and works while others say it was a complete waste of time.

    Don't know if there is some truth in this method that is only effective on specific paint and varnish types. I for one won't be trying it. :eek:
  • Ok, this myth got the better of me. I have an old 1920's fireplace to strip so over the Christmas period, thought i'd give it a go. i did one part with a leading brand of porridge (the good stuff not the value alternative) and the rest with peelaway 7.

    Verdict

    As thought, all the porridge did was leave a cold, sticky mess :-(

    The peel away 7 did a great job on the top 12 or so coats but then found out that i needed to use Peelaway 1 on the older lead based paint coats benieth.

    Looks like i'll be eating the rest of the porridge over the coming weeks.
  • We have been stripping very old beams in our house using kling strip.

    There is all manner of black paint and stain on them which a good dose of Kling strip has removed.

    Beware though the above poster is right it takes a lot of scrubbing and buckets of water to get all the gunge and product off.

    However, with a coat of linseed oil the labour and cost has been well worth it
  • I used porridge on some ornamental edwardian cornicing and it has worked so well on the test areas that I am now starting the rest of the ceiling.

    The cornicing is covered in 3 layers of paint, which are a satin finish.

    Covered it with porridge made up with water to really sticky consistency stuck it on and covered it with a cut up plastic bag and left it for 2 days.

    Then I wiped away the porridge and started to peel away the paint, you do need to be patient but the porridge softens the paint enough to peel it away and I can now scrape the paint away from the plaster to reveal the intricate patterns underneath.

    No idea why it works but it does!
  • You could look at dry ice blasting, which removes paint without adding any contaminent as the co2 sublimates. The co2 is recycled so it is environmentally friendly.
  • pineapple
    pineapple Posts: 6,931 Forumite
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    edited 26 February 2012 at 2:49PM
    Just bumping this thread to say I have started work on my horrible black veneer clad pine beams. :eek:
    I'm doing a test area with Nitromors 'Superstrip' but it's painfully slow and a bit messy because you are working overhead. Options are limited though as I live there. Also I don't know whether there is lead in the paint. Underneath the cladding is a layer of paint and some traces of black paint under that. I can't work out yet whether I have got through to the natural wood or whether it is stained (however I could live with that compared to the current).
    I've been looking at the Peelaway 7 but have also sent an email to some Kling Strip suppliers (they offer a trial amount).
    Just wondered if anyone has had further experience. I'm holding on the porridge idea though. I'm messy enough without having my cottage look like a porridge fight with the three bears!
  • Edwardia
    Edwardia Posts: 9,170 Forumite
    Peel Away is useless. We use Kling Strip in big tubs. You have to make sure you don't let it dry out but took off 90% of 12 layers of paint from skirting boards even removing the original Edwardian paint and without releasing lead particles into the air.
  • pineapple
    pineapple Posts: 6,931 Forumite
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    edited 28 February 2012 at 12:25AM
    Edwardia wrote: »
    Peel Away is useless. We use Kling Strip in big tubs. You have to make sure you don't let it dry out but took off 90% of 12 layers of paint from skirting boards even removing the original Edwardian paint and without releasing lead particles into the air.
    So did you cover it with ordinary cling film or did you buy special film to go with it? I've ordered a sample size tub anyway.
    Actually I've done a test area with Nitromors Superstrip and it isn't bad. It's thick and clings to vertical surfaces. It needed two applications (but will try leaving it on longer next time) and afterwards I simply wiped down the area with plain water a few times. It doesn't have a noxious smell either.
    My neighbours used a heat gun on their beams without a care in the world about whether the paint might have lead in it. :eek: Is there a way of telling?
  • Leif
    Leif Posts: 3,727 Forumite
    pineapple wrote: »
    So did you cover it with ordinary cling film or did you buy special film to go with it? I've ordered a sample size tub anyway.

    I used cling film. When used on vertical and under surfaces the stripper tends to fall off during the night, so make sure the surfaces it could fall onto are protected. It works, but on grey plaster it can eat into the plaster leaving a rough surface, possibly because the paint had soaked in. So I had to do some sanding. Also the plaster surface was atrocious, possibly bad workmanship, masked by wallpaper.

    I also tried some Eco paint remover from B&Q and it worked well on gloss paint on wood, but had to be left overnight, or for most of a day.
    Warning: This forum may contain nuts.
  • pineapple
    pineapple Posts: 6,931 Forumite
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    Leif wrote: »
    I used cling film. When used on vertical and under surfaces the stripper tends to fall off during the night, so make sure the surfaces it could fall onto are protected.
    Cheers for that because the beams are directly over a living area :eek:
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