Help me understand our central heating!

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  • matelodave
    matelodave Posts: 8,606 Forumite
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    I don't know how the Worcester set up works, but ours is different insofar as it anticipates that if I want, say 20 degrees in the lounge and it's 0 degrees outside then it supplies water at around 40 degrees to compensate for the 20 degrees temperature difference between inside and outside.

    If however the outside temperature is only 10 degrees, then the difference is less so the room loses less heat so the system reduces the water temperature to around 30 degrees to maintain the same temperature so it's not flogging away at it's rated output but reducing it to balance the heat loss.

    I'd guess that a modern boiler with a modulating burner and weather compensation would do somewhat similar, just supplying enough heat to balance the heat loss.

    It took me a while to tweak the weather compensation slope (outside temp/water temp) to balance the heat loss but it works pretty well as I can continuously record the power consumed by out heating system and see the difference.

    It's a bit frightening when it's below freezing outside and we get through 40-50 kwh of leccy a day in say December to February but our annual energy consumption averages out at around 18kwh a day overall.
    Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers
  • (Sorry for hijacking your thread!)

    We have an ideal logic combi, which has a temp dial for the heating and one for the hot water. We have TRVs on all radiators.... but no thermostat!

    When our heating is 'on', does this mean our boiler runs periodically to ensure the temperature of the water in the radiators meets that set on the boiler dial..... or is our boiler running flat out while the heating is 'on', screaming "help... theres no thermostat!!! What do I do!!!? Arghghgh!!!".

    The installer said a thermostat wasnt essential.... :o
  • CashStrapped
    CashStrapped Posts: 1,294 Forumite
    First Post First Anniversary Combo Breaker
    When our heating is 'on', does this mean our boiler runs periodically to ensure the temperature of the water in the radiators meets that set on the boiler dial..... or is our boiler running flat out while the heating is 'on', screaming "help... theres no thermostat!!! What do I do!!!? Arghghgh!!!".

    The installer said a thermostat wasnt essential.... :o

    It is not essential, just an automated labour saving device that can have efficiency savings if you no not use the boiler controls effectively in a manual fashion...

    The thermostat just turns the boiler on and off at a specific set temperature.

    See this thread posted today asking the exact same question....

    http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=5539304
  • hawkwind
    hawkwind Posts: 237 Forumite
    First Post First Anniversary Combo Breaker
    edited 11 October 2016 at 4:49PM

    Combi boilers side note: Modern combi (or any modern condensing boiler) boilers work more efficiently when the system is used at the lowest temperature (controls on the boiler) possible to keep the house warm. Therefore there is an incentive to run the central heating system at a warm temperature for longer rather than very hot for a short period(s). This is because it allows the condensing part of the boiler to recover more waste heat. This will improve boiler efficiency. This only happens at a lower temperature.

    I hope that helps!

    With regards to this part, i have a Glow-Worm Easicom 28w combi with the heating set to 70 degrees C on the boiler.
    Should i be setting this temperature lower then to make my boiler more efficient providing it is enough to still heat the house of course.
    What would be the lowest temperature you would recommend setting it to.

    All radiators have TMV`s apart from the bathroom and we have a wireless Myson plus MPRT RF wireless room thermostat that can be placed in any room we like.
  • CashStrapped
    CashStrapped Posts: 1,294 Forumite
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    edited 11 October 2016 at 5:28PM
    hawkwind wrote: »
    With regards to this part, i have a Glow-Worm Easicom 28w combi with the heating set to 70 degrees C on the boiler.
    Should i be setting this temperature lower then to make my boiler more efficient providing it is enough to still heat the house of course.
    What would be the lowest temperature you would recommend setting it to.

    All radiators have TMV`s apart from the bathroom and we have a wireless Myson plus MPRT RF wireless room thermostat that can be placed in any room we like.

    Yes, in theory.... yes.

    Running your boiler at a lower temperature for longer, rather than very hot (and therefore very hot radiators) for short periods should be more efficient.

    Basically you are trying to maintain a temperature at the same rate heat is lost from the house. This should, in theory, be the most efficient way to heat a house. So the minimum temperature required to do this, should be the most efficient. The more insulated the house, the easier this is to achieve.

    What many people do is have the boiler on very high under the impression it heats the house quicker and faster and is not on for long. This means the radiators are red hot for short periods. The boiler cycles (turns on and off more often), which wastes heat and gas. Furthermore the return temperature of the water to the boiler is so high that condensing never actually takes place much. This makes a condensing boiler pointless as it is not doing what it is designed to do.

    That's the idea basically. In practice there can be a lot more variables. Every house and person is different. Some people like a very warm house which can make this approach more difficult if the set-up is not well designed. For example, undersized radiators may need to be much hotter to maintain a rooms temperature.
  • hawkwind
    hawkwind Posts: 237 Forumite
    First Post First Anniversary Combo Breaker
    Thank you for the reply :)
    I have turned the boiler down to 60C so i will see how everyone feels later tonight once the heating is back on.
  • Cardew
    Cardew Posts: 29,036 Forumite
    Name Dropper First Anniversary First Post Rampant Recycler
    hawkwind wrote: »
    Thank you for the reply :)
    I have turned the boiler down to 60C so i will see how everyone feels later tonight once the heating is back on.

    That will make no difference to the temperature in your room/house; provided you have left the TRVs at the same setting.

    Turning the water temperature down from 70C to 60C will mean the room will take a little longer to reach the required room temperature. However as stated above it should mean the boiler is operating in a slightly more efficient mode.
  • hawkwind
    hawkwind Posts: 237 Forumite
    First Post First Anniversary Combo Breaker
    Yes thanks TRV`s are at the same setting as before, no complaints from anyone so everyone happy especially me if i am saving money :)
  • Pincher
    Pincher Posts: 6,552 Forumite
    Combo Breaker First Post
    lstar337 wrote: »
    Next time I will leave a note telling him the boiler settings are to be returned to how I had them prior to his tests!

    Good luck.

    I realised long ago that passing exams doesn't mean they understand anything. They learn to do Y-Plan and S-Plan, without really understanding why and that is what they live on for years. It's only when things go wrong and a Third Dan Guru Plumber passes on his wisdom, then they realise why they do what they do.

    I designed the system to handle radiators and underfloor heating, plus two hot water cylinders, so it has four zone valves, with a 230V Honeywell two channel programmer, AND a zero volt Glowworm Climastat programmer. Way beyond the Gas Safe engineer's comfort zone, so he called Glowworm. They actually sent an engineer. He didn't understand it, but at least he didn't say no.

    The problem is, nobody understands how it works except me, so if anything goes wrong, I'll have problems getting an engineer willing to touch it. :o
  • lstar337
    lstar337 Posts: 3,441 Forumite
    First Anniversary Name Dropper First Post Combo Breaker
    hawkwind wrote: »
    Should i be setting this temperature lower then to make my boiler more efficient providing it is enough to still heat the house of course.
    As CashStrapped says, yes. A lower temperature for longer heating period will be more efficient for a condensing boiler. Note: This is not an advocation of the "heating on all day is better than using timers" theory. It is never good to heat when you are not in.
    hawkwind wrote: »
    What would be the lowest temperature you would recommend setting it to.
    Quite simply as low as you can go. Just make sure the output is enough to keep up with your house losses.

    Your aim is to have the return temperature at 55c or below. I stuck a thermometer on the return pipe to check mine.

    I have a well insulated house so it doesn't take much output to keep it warm all day. In winter I have a 1 hour heating period in the morning, and a 1 hour heating period at 6:30. My boiler temp is set a 50c, which means it is always condensing because the return will always be lower than that.
    hawkwind wrote: »
    I have turned the boiler down to 60C so i will see how everyone feels later tonight once the heating is back on.
    That's a good start, but you may find you can go lower than that. I adjusted mine very slowly over a number of weeks and found I could go much lower than I thought.

    Give it a try.
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