alarm not working, poss disconnected?

chezybezy · 20 May 2017 at 4:35PM

looking for some guidance please,
a year or so ago we had a conservatory fitted and iirc they disconnected our house alarm as it continuously chirps when there is no power / a power cut and it was beeping while they connected up the electricity etc.
given things at the time i didn't notice until some time after that the alarm isn't working, there is no power to the keypad inside and the outside isnt 'flashing' - my best guess is that its just been disconnected presumably for the above reasons and not reconnected.
any ideas how i can fix this or should i get an electrician in, any idea on cost?
thanks

Myser · 20 May 2017 at 6:28PM

Do you know the make of the alarm? If not, can you take a photo of it?

Chances are, they have removed the fuse from the fused connection unit that supplies power to the alarm or switched off the circuit breaker in the consumer unit (fuse box).

The chirping may indicate that it needs a new internal back-up battery.

Joeycat1969 · 23 May 2017 at 10:45PM

Hi

Do you have motion sensors in the house & if so do they light up when you walk in front of them?

If they don't light up it looks like either the 12 volt auxiliary fuse has been taken out or the 230 volt to the control panel has been turned off.

chezybezy · 1 June 2017 at 4:16PM

Myser wrote: »

Do you know the make of the alarm? If not, can you take a photo of it?

Chances are, they have removed the fuse from the fused connection unit that supplies power to the alarm or switched off the circuit breaker in the consumer unit (fuse box).

The chirping may indicate that it needs a new internal back-up battery.

thank you sorry for the delay.
i checked and outside it just has alarm systems and what looks to be a mobile number. i can grab a pic of the key pad if that would help?

chezybezy · 1 June 2017 at 4:18PM

Joeycat1969 wrote: »

Hi

Do you have motion sensors in the house & if so do they light up when you walk in front of them?

If they don't light up it looks like either the 12 volt auxiliary fuse has been taken out or the 230 volt to the control panel has been turned off.

thank you and again sorry for the delay,
ooo i hadn't though to check that - so after hopping around it appears these are not working either (how i did not notice i have no idea!).
is there an easy way to identify if it is either of the options you have suggested? small / house electronics i'm ok with, when it comes to the fuse box i am a little nervous?

Myser · 2 June 2017 at 1:40AM

Yes, a photo of the keypad and alarm panel would be useful to help identify which alarm you have.

chezybezy · 10 June 2017 at 9:29PM

Myser wrote: »

Yes, a photo of the keypad and alarm panel would be useful to help identify which alarm you have.

so sorry for the delay! hopefully these will help:

Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4

any ideas?

Le_Kirk · 11 June 2017 at 10:54AM

There are dedicated forums for burglar alarm problems - you might try asking on one of those. It looks like you have an Accenta/Optima G3 and I have worked on one of those for one of my neighbours. In order to check for power in to the unit and whether or not you have voltage (13 v DC) to the sensors and keypad, you will have to open the main control unit. This will have a tamper alarm on it, which might set of an internal alarm, so be prepared with ear defenders! If you have no power to the keypad there will be no way to reset the sounder when you open the unit cover. If you are not feeling confident I would suggest an alarm engineer rather than an electrician as alarms can have there own little peculiarities!

chezybezy · 11 June 2017 at 4:06PM

Le_Kirk wrote: »

There are dedicated forums for burglar alarm problems - you might try asking on one of those. It looks like you have an Accenta/Optima G3 and I have worked on one of those for one of my neighbours. In order to check for power in to the unit and whether or not you have voltage (13 v DC) to the sensors and keypad, you will have to open the main control unit. This will have a tamper alarm on it, which might set of an internal alarm, so be prepared with ear defenders! If you have no power to the keypad there will be no way to reset the sounder when you open the unit cover. If you are not feeling confident I would suggest an alarm engineer rather than an electrician as alarms can have there own little peculiarities!

Ah! thank you, hmm i can understand the need for anti tamper measures, in fact i'm one of those people who build them into nearly everything i advise but right now i'm questioning my wisdom!

I do know the keypad used to light up so my guess is there is no power to it; which could result in the unfortunate outcome you have advised.
Do you think they would have disconnected the power at the unit (keypad / box on outside wall) rather than from the fuse box end?
Also would you have any idea on the sort of cost it might be to get someone to come and look at it, maybe even the 'installer' who put a number in my manual?
sorry for all the questions and once again thank you very much

Le_Kirk · 11 June 2017 at 5:32PM

I would hope that if any disconnecting had been done it would have been at the main unit by turning off the mains input. Not being knowledgeable about your layout it is impossible to say but if there are no lights on the keypad, it would lead me to assume no power to main box. Normally if the power is cut, the alarm internal sounds constantly and the only thing stopping the main sounder is the back-up battery.
Not being in the trade (just a helpful, neighbourly ex-engineer) I cannot help with costs.
Try this link for help on security alarms ............. and this one and avforrums.com.

alarm not working, poss disconnected?

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