Repetetively failing silicon around shower base

2

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  • Any
    Any Posts: 7,944
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    Hi,


    Thank you Sysadmin. I think we would need a professional to come in and give us a quote.


    I am actually looking at putting this www.kinedo.co.uk into the new bathroom.. I always had problems with bathrooms and this seems to me as a good bet. Also this is an old house with uneven floors and walls, which is not making any tradesman's job easier..
    Anyone could recommend this or any other make?


    We did it in 2 goes Shaun, but you might be right, it is still not enough time lapsed.
  • Any
    Any Posts: 7,944
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    phil24_7 wrote: »
    You could hire some acros and jack the floor back up, cut some thick plywood into strips as wide as the joist and nail and glue them to the sides of the sagging joists. Remove the acros, allow the floor to settle for a day or two then reseal. A few hundred quid and a days work.


    That sounds like a quite job and definitely not something we could do ourselves.
    Jacking floor up could also cause tiles on the floor to crack etc.
    Would have thought it would be safer to do it from above - remove the base and work from there..
  • WestonDave
    WestonDave Posts: 5,154
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    Just a thought - is the floor actually dry at any point before you try testing it. If you've got a inch thick floor board soaked with water, its not going to dry out very quickly - you might dry the surface but its going to take a bit of time for the all the water to come out. You need to be sure water is coming through again as opposed to old water still coming out.


    In terms of possible solutions I don't know if its still around but you used to be able to get a stick on L shaped strip that was designed for covering the join between the wall and a bath. Depending on the gap it might help. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bath-Sealing-Strip-3-35m-SupaDec/dp/B00Y3PIHA8 is what I was thinking of - but you need to be sure there is enough of it gripping on both sides so it depends how big a gap you are trying to bridge. I'd still fill the gap down the side/back of the tray with silicon but the idea behind this strip is that it diverts most of the water away and into the tray so there is less to even try to find its way down the gap. Its not a long term solution or going to be that attractive and may need replacing periodically if it starts to lift but I guess it could buy you a bit of time until your refurb.
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  • phil24_7
    phil24_7 Posts: 1,535
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    If jacked up slowly (maybe over the space of a few days) it will cause no more problems than the dropping over a period of time has/will.

    If all of the joist are already exposed below then it isn't beyond the realms of DIY, depending on your skill level.
  • WestonDave
    WestonDave Posts: 5,154
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    Another thought is that the boating industry must have some form of waterproof "tape" that will stick to things that are going to get wet - as a short term solution maybe something like that would help if you have a chandlery store anywhere nearby - or can find something online. As I said above if you can get most of the water which is currently running down the wall and then down the gap to divert into the tray you may cut it down to little enough to dry out organically between showers.
    Adventure before Dementia!
  • andyhop
    andyhop Posts: 1,996
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    edited 14 October 2016 at 6:41PM
    Silicone won't stick to silicone . If the gap is too deep use foam strips to fill them silicone

    If you have a gap at the bottom of the tile to tray then your floor has sunk or the tray hasn't been correctly fitted

    Tray should be sat on a bed of tile adhesive or atleast a bag of mortar. Floor under the tray should be sound and solid, ideally replaced with 18/22/25mm plywood

    Sticking laminate boards over the top is a bodge, it still won't fix the movement
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  • Chanes
    Chanes Posts: 882
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    Expanding foam? Maybe?
  • Bettie
    Bettie Posts: 1,223
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    could you not put a shower curtain or two on a wire and velcro/stick it to the sides at the bottom or with weights on it would hang straight so the water runs down the curtain into the tray?
  • Any
    Any Posts: 7,944
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    WestonDave wrote: »
    Another thought is that the boating industry must have some form of waterproof "tape" that will stick to things that are going to get wet - as a short term solution maybe something like that would help if you have a chandlery store anywhere nearby - or can find something online. As I said above if you can get most of the water which is currently running down the wall and then down the gap to divert into the tray you may cut it down to little enough to dry out organically between showers.

    Something like that I was hoping for, but cannot find anything online!
  • Any
    Any Posts: 7,944
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    andyhop wrote: »
    Silicone won't stick to silicone . If the gap is too deep use foam strips to fill them silicone

    If you have a gap at the bottom of the tile to tray then your floor has sunk or the tray hasn't been correctly fitted

    Tray should be sat on a bed of tile adhesive or atleast a bag of mortar. Floor under the tray should be sound and solid, ideally replaced with 18/22/25mm plywood

    Sticking laminate boards over the top is a bodge, it still won't fix the movement

    Yes, ut had sagged. We know that.
    It is all being replaced in spring, we just need to last till then!
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