Peel-Away or Kling-Strip - which is better

F_t_P · 15 May 2006 at 1:32PM

Has anyone used either of these poultice type paint removers?

I understand that this is the best way to get paint off bannisters and architraves etc but which brand is best?

Kling-Strip has been made for longer I think.....

There are two types of Peel-Away; numbered 1 and 7. If you know these, which should be used for the above paint removal?

Thanks

Laura

monkey_writer · 27 September 2006 at 8:43PM

hello, I would also be interested to know this.

I need to strip some gloss paint from lime paster.

And also some enamel paint covered with gloss paint from some aluminium.

flang · 28 September 2006 at 5:53PM

good old fashioned heat guy always does the trick

:D:D

mintyfresh · 5 October 2006 at 1:14PM

these products are useless. I tried several types to strip a ceiling cornice and ended up with a real mess. They claim to strip multiple layers of paint (up to 20) at a time but I found they struggled with 1. maybe they would work on large flat surfaces, but anything with detail is a no-go. You simply cant get the removal paper into the fine detail !

I spent nearly £150 and lots of time on a small hall and small room !!! wished I'd never had started in the end

Mike_G_3 · 10 January 2007 at 1:14PM

Sorry to be joining this discussion rather belatedly!

I've needed to strip large areas of Victorian paint from skirtings, stairs, spindles, ceiling roses and ornate plaster cornices and since discovering Peel Away and then Kling Strip (a cheaper version, based on the same principle), my life has been made significantly easier!

It's important to cover the application properly and leave for a minimum of 24 hours before attempting to peel off the backing paper. While it's true that neither product removes every last spec of paint in a single application, they leave the residue on the cornice paintwork in a softened state which then enables me to pick out the remaining paint with a minimum of fuss. Similarly, any remaining paint on wooden surfaces can be removed easily with a second application (or a wipe-down with caustic soda if you're prepared to take the necessary precautions when handling the stuff!)

You also will need to neutralise the surfaces once they've been fully stripped (using either a proprietary neutraliser or your own solution of white vinegar) to ensure that any subsequent paint or varnish takes properly.

But overall, I can't recommend these products highly enough, provided you follow their instructions carefully and don't try to rush the job.

crispyduck_2 · 16 April 2008 at 10:39AM

Hi thread

I've used PA 7 on soft stone flat and carved, and found it pretty damn good, I think it takes a bit of work to get it off once it's done it's magic as I found even on flat I needed to leave it longer than the instructions said.

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/p/PALPA7/

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/p/PALPA1/

I now need quite a bit and was wondering if any of you peeps have found a really good cheap source??

Sorry to come in quite late to the discussion

Cheers

C

sarah_elton · 16 April 2008 at 1:00PM

When I moved into my flat, the numpty who had painted the hall previously had managed to get paint all over the back of the front door.

I used this stuff:

http://www.makingdiyeasier.co.uk/nitromors/pvremovers.html

(the green tin)

It worked great. As others have said with regard to other products, follow all the instructions as the process is a little convoluted. But it got 99% of the paint off without damaging the surface of the door.

It is highly toxic and the instructions said to only use it outside, but I wasn't going to take my front door off and carry it down so I used it inside - keeping all windows open during and for several hours afterwards, and had no problem at all.

Picked it up from B&Q if I remember rightly, probably for under 20 quid and still got most of the tin left. It was a couple of years ago so not sure who stocks it now.

comingupforblair · 3 December 2008 at 11:32AM

I have used Kling strip - it's very effective. I recently used porridge to remove paint. I'm not mad and it does work on coving (make up porridge stick it to area and cover in clingfilm) but I found the weight of the porridge meant that some of it fell down. If you can get the porridge to stay up there it's highly reccomended and very cheap!

Jahz_2 · 23 April 2009 at 11:53PM

Yes, I've used porridge and it's very effective. If you 'cook' it to the correct consistency it sticks to anything! I use the 'value' brand of supermarket porridge oats and heat it in a pan with just enough water to make a thick gruel. (It shouldn't flow). This takes less than a minute (unless you also want to eat it, in which case cook as directed!) It's not really necessary to use warm porridge but I feel it's more likely to act better on the paint. But anyway, you'll find that if the porridge is thick enough it will easily stick to the plaster. Once you've spread it over the plaster (use a wooden or plastic spatula - a metal item can easily damage the cornice), cover it with cut-open carrier bags to retain the moisture and leave it for 2 or 3 days then pick it off. Much of it will come away with the porridge but you'll have to scrape off the remaining softened paint, but that shouldn't be a problem.
I wouldn't leave it on much longer though as mould can develop with a corresponding pong.
I'm assuming the paint to be removed is water-based (emulsion etc). I don't imagine it would be very good on oil-based paint (gloss etc). But would be interested to hear of anyone else's experience.
So.....
It's safe
It's 'green'
It's effective
It's CHEAP!

TheGardener · 16 August 2009 at 1:58PM

Like Jahz, I tried the porridge method - with a lot of cornicing to tackle, the Peel Away 7 product was simply way too expensive for my meagre budget and I have to say I was astounded to find porridge really does work! A bit of experimenting with consistency and the tools I used to remove it and we got it sussed. Supermarket value porridge oats, own brand swing bin liners (gosamer thin) and an assortment of wooden manicure sticks, old credit card and a kitchen palet knife, this job cost me less then a tenner rather than over £100. To top all that it was as eco friendly as you can get! No chemicals to neutralise (or for the dogs and kids to get at) and very kind to my skin!! A total winner for me.

Stina · 18 May 2011 at 12:27PM

Hi,

I found the porridge option to work well for me after reading your posts. Thanks!

Now to my question: What paint should I use to repaint the stripped cornicing? It is very detailed Victorian cornicing and I don't want it to clog up, that would make all the work stripping it pointless...

Emulsion paint? Does it need to be watered down and layered? Without paint it is beige and I want to paint it white.

Thankful for advice!!

Peel-Away or Kling-Strip - which is better

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